Reinforce the outer layer

Pin parts A and B of outer fabric to the interfacing and sew together using ‘running stitch’. The interfacing pieces are made from a stiff, papery fabric and will have sewing and fold lines marked on them, make sure these lines are facing outwards so you can follow them later.

Sew the nose dart

At the top of part A there is a ‘v’ shaped cut. Fold the outer mask part A and the lining part A in half and sew a backstitch along the marked line to create the dart that will fit over your nose. Make sure that the right sides of the outer mask are touching (wrong sides are facing you) when you sew.

Join the mask pieces

Now you should have two A pieces with a peak for your nose and two flat part B pieces. Match the centre notch in the bottom of part A with the notch in the top of the curve of part B. Use a pins to hold the pieces together, aligned on the centre notches. Now sew the two pieces together using a backstitch, following the line marked on the fabric. Join both the outer pieces and the lining pieces. Make small snips into the seam allowance spaced at finger-width intervals - making sure not to cut through your stitches. ‘Finger press’ your seam allowances open (or use an iron if you prefer) and turn your outer mask the right way round. 

Join the outer to the lining

You should now have two things that are starting to look like masks - a stiffened outer and a lining. Now place and pin the lining inside the outer mask and attach these two masks together using a running stitch close to the edge. Make sure the right side of each piece is facing out when you attach them together.

Bind the long edges with bias binding

There are two strips of bias binding, one longer than the other, the longer piece is for the lower edge, the shorter piece is for the top edge. The bias binding has 3 creases in it, pin the longer strip of binding along the top of the mask (right sides together) and sew with backstitch inside the first crease. Repeat this process with the second strip of binding along the bottom of the mask.

Sew a channel, insert the nose wire and finish the binding

In order for the mask to fit well over your nose a wire is inserted in the top of the mask so that it can be bent to shape. Unfold your paper clip and get it as straight as you can, sew a channel with a close running stitch (2/3mm stitches) to contain it, it’ll be about 4.5cm long either side of the nose dart. Now insert that wire and make a few stitches on top of each other at either end of the wire to hold it in place.

Bring the binding to the inside of the mask with one edge folded under, pin in place and whipstitch it to the lining. Trim any excess binding so it is flush with the sides of the mask.

Insert your boning and ear elastic

You should have two pieces of stiff plastic boning with elastic stitched to them. Lay a one piece of boning on the inside of the mask and fold over the side edge so that the boning is covered. Pin the folded edge (with the boning underneath it) in place while you sew the edge with a whipstitch. Repeat on the other side. The mask is now complete.